Soldering machine

[amwing1588]

Hi all,
I'm contemplating building an Hon3 #72, #73 using a Key #71 base, or a #537 using the Balboa DRGW C-21 base from a brass model. In a previous post on "looking for 71 advice," Jim Courtney posted a picture in the thread of his Weller DES51 soldering machine. I haven't had a lot of experience using soldering machines before, but am always willing to give new things a try. I've been looking at Jim Courtney 's DES51 to buy off eBay, but before I drop good money, I'd like to hear back from some folks (sorry Jim) that build or modify brass model as well. Jim mentioned using a fine tip soldering point when soldering small details. Does a fine tip soldering point create enough heat to melt the solder without breaking close solder joints? Is a resistance soldering machine worth the money? I've built models in Styrene, wood, plastic and resin, but brass will be my next adventure...so I'd like to get as many recommendations as possible before making a final decision.
Thanks all
John Miller
Carlsbad, CA

[Charles McMillan]

John,
I have used a standard soldering iron for over 60 years. I have built brass models using an iron and a jeweler's torch for most of that time.
I think you will find that a variable heat soldering iron will be just fine. My current iron has a maximum heat output of 45 watts. That has been fine for working in HOn3. If I need more heat than that, I use my 2-bottle jeweler's torch.

I will say that when soldering, practice and more practice. I use an automatic heat adjustment soldering in my work every day. The automatic unit is a real treat. If the unit didn't cost $500.00, I would have one for my use at home. The unit has changeable tips you can select, and they have a range of heat output depending on the size. The largest heating element is probably 100 watts, the smallest 15 watts.

My CB&Q 537 is based on a Balboa C-21 locomotive.



Charles M.

[Jim Courtney]

John,

Please do not mistake me for any kind of authority on soldering brass locomotives. It is a skill set that I'm still trying to master.

A resistance soldering set like those sold by P-B-L and MicroMark certainly have their uses. I've simply found that the variable output iron is sufficient for most things. The resistance device can produce too much heat, even on the lowest setting. It can anneal or even melt small diameter brass wire used for HO / S scale plumbing. I'm also very accomplished at unsoldering nearby work using my tweezers.

You might revisit an older thread by John Greenly on soldering fabrication--I've learned that cleaning, fluxing and the type of solder used is just as important as the heat source. http://c-sng-discussion-forum.254.s1.nabble.com/fabrication-techniques-soldering-td12978.html

[Jim Courtney]

Beautiful workmanship, Chris!