Roof walks?

[Tim Schreiner]

Since roof walks aren't supposed to be painted, what about reefer roof hatches?

[Tim Schreiner]

Here is the result of this evening's project. Painting, or correctly unpainting the roof walks on my equipment. I have been modeling narrow gauge for nearly 35 years, and never knew, or considered that they should be this way prototypically for safety reasons.

[Derrell Poole]

Well. The reason for not painting roof walks goes to safety - in walking on a painted surface when its wet. No body walked on Roof hatches - at least not normally. The reason for painting any surface is to preserve it....

[Tim Schreiner]

Went ahead, and continued with the platforms, and steps. Love the difference it makes!

[Derrell Poole]

Nice looking fleet. Love that 1007

[Tim Schreiner]

My #1007 was made by modifying a CB #1006 that was given to me as a gift. As you can see from the picture, the model was pretty rough when I got it. However it turned out pretty well, and was a fun project.

[Darel Leedy]

Nice work Tim. I assume you are brush painting all your walks? What paint and color are you using? Looks right to my eye.

[Tim Schreiner]

Yes I brush painted them. The color may surprise you. I used Floquil rail brown. I also think it worked perfectly.

[Derrell Poole]

A modelers story of caboose restoration! Looks like it came out of a model cow pasture somewhere near a model Leadville....

Nice results Tim.

[Derrell Poole]

I posted elsewhere that I have 7 Cabooses myself. I need to build two kits and aquire or scratch built 3 more cars to complete the 1910 roster. Actually I need to scratch built a 13th car as an outfit caboose No. 087 - that should be fun since I don't even know what it looked like. Here is a shot of what I have now.


actually only the two 300 series cars are completed - well except No. 306 needs glass and a sound decoder.





The 7 cars are OMI issues and make up a complete post 1930 ng roster. these include 1000, 1002, 1003, 1005, 1006, 1008 and 1009. But in 1910 they were 300, 301, 303, 304, 305, 306, 308, 309, 312, 313, and 314. I 'll probably use the 2 kits to build 313 and 314 because I am inclined to believe these cars were never rebuilt above the frame. In fact 313 is seen at Blackhawk sans cupola in 1910. And both were scrapped by Jan.1915 - as was 301. I'm looking for another 1006 to convert to 309 and probably a long body car to make into 305. That car lasted as 1004 until 1923.

and then of course there is out favorite de jur 087...

[Keith Hayes]

Derrell, when you speak of a sound decoder, do you mean the new Soundtraxx wheel squeal decoders? I got one with the thought of putting it a caboose.

How do you handle the power pick-up on a 4-wheel bobber?

[Derrell Poole]

Yes. The new Tsunami Soundcar decoders. I've not installed one yet either but they are suppose to be programmable to syc with the speed of the engine. The OMI cabooses are excellent for this because you can take the body off the frame to access the electronics and the cars are heavy. Still you should include a Keep Alive or Current keeper. For 308 I used wipers on the insulated wheels.

[Keith Hayes]

Can you please post a picture of the wipers, Mr Poole?

Actually the caboose is a perfect spot for us narrow gaugers, because each train has one, and you really only need one per train. Also, with shorter trains, the sound at the end of the train nicely bookends the locomotive.

I had written off putting one of these in a C&S caboose due to the pickup issue.