How to pick up power for DCC in OMI Cabooses (Sn3)

[Todd A Ferguson]

If you really want to do good soldering of electronics and model components you should think about investing in a quality soldering station.  They are not inexpensive, but do great work, offer a wide variety of tips and accessories and are a joy to use.  I bought one about 8 years ago and with it and my resistance unit I can tackle any modeling task. They are lifetime tools...

http://www.all-spec.com/products/WD1002.html

Best,

Todd Ferguson

Harrisburg, NC

Sent from my Wacked and Cracked iPad III, OUCH!!!

On Mar 22, 2015, at 12:57 AM, "Derrell Poole [via C&Sn3 Discussion Forum]" <[hidden email]> wrote:

Hey, I just tell for effect, Keith.

I have two electronic cabooses already. I've posted photos of these already. I have two more all torn down and under backdate process. They sit there on my bench where I install DCC in other people's stuff. Right now it's a 1989 run PBL K-27 (461). So who has time for the bobbers? Like all my other projects they wait until I catch my breath. I'd do more modeling of my own but I need to buy Tacos and Bullets. So I do other peoples stuff.

That is exactly the tip; the Tip - of the iron. As fine pointed a Tip as you can get and a delicate touch. Tin the end of the wires and the prongs of the plugs. Put paste flux on the middle prong then work outward as you go. It helps if you can use an alligator clip on a piece of  .032" piano wire stuck in a block of wood to hold the plug while you work. As you work outward turn the plug over each time soldering wires on opposite sides of the prongs from each other. Keep flipping and soldering and putting a new small ball of solder on the tip and fluxing prongs. The solder will jump off your iron onto the prong and the wire as you touch them held against each other. Be quick but frugal. Too much solder bridges the prongs. Too little solder makes it more difficult to solder the wire - slower and over heating.

 

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NAML

[Keith Hayes]

Todd, I think my soldering rig is the model down from that one.

No doubt about it a good rig and a clean tip make a world of difference.

[Derrell Poole]

Excellent. I can't read so well but I do like looking at pi-chers!

The orange Tamiya paint might be at my suggestion as I use the same trick and may have shared that with you... eons ago. I use the orange for fire boxes and the yellow for lanterns. I have red for rear end markers and lamps. What resistance did you come up with for the lamp?

[Derrell Poole]

These are excellent stations Todd and I use one similar at NWSL. But s'pensive. I use the cheaper orange Weller stations with 50 and 80 watt irons. It is cheaper to buy two of these stations than one of those. Oh I'd have one of those as the convenience in how quickly they heat up and change is great. They also last longer. But again there is that tacos and bullets thing...

Weller is about the best units you can get primarily because of their iron clad tips which last many, many times longer than a bare copper tip. They also come in many sizes and shapes.

[Todd A Ferguson]

Keith,

Plus having options in tips and wattage of hand pieces too...

I love these tips as the cost about $5 and last forever unlike the junk from home centers and radio shack. I even use .008" tip to burn knothole details.  Expensive as just a wood burner kit though...lol.

Best,

Todd Ferguson

Harrisburg, NC

Sent from my Wacked and Cracked iPad III, OUCH!!!

On Mar 22, 2015, at 12:03 PM, "Keith Hayes [via C&Sn3 Discussion Forum]" <[hidden email]> wrote:

Todd, I think my soldering rig is the model down from that one.

No doubt about it a good rig and a clean tip make a world of difference.

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NAML

[Todd A Ferguson]

Yes Derrell I love mine... Mine actually has the two,outputs and can also run the super light phono plug tipped hand piece.  With the two outputs I can also run the monster 150 watt iron, but have not had that need so far.  Would probably be nice for stained glass work though.  Love the quick heat up times too.  No waiting 5 minutes to solder something...

Best,

Todd Ferguson

Harrisburg, NC

Sent from my Wacked and Cracked iPad III, OUCH!!!

On Mar 22, 2015, at 12:12 PM, "Derrell Poole [via C&Sn3 Discussion Forum]" <[hidden email]> wrote:

These are excellent stations Todd and I use one similar at NWSL. But s'pensive. I use the cheaper orange Weller stations with 50 and 80 watt irons. It is cheaper to buy two of these stations than one of those. Oh I'd have one of those as the convenience in how quickly they heat up and change is great. They also last longer. But again there is that tacos and bullets thing...

Weller is about the best units you can get primarily because of their iron clad tips which last many, many times longer than a bare copper tip. They also come in many sizes and shapes.

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[Keith Hayes]

Darrell,  I got very similar results to yours. My meter only letS me select 10v or 50v, so I was getting 12-13.

Dave  502 set me up with an array of resistors, which are available at Caboose for about a buck for five. Heck, I got enough bulbs to last a while.

I am thinking of using one leg of the resistor as a pole on which to mount the bulb. That way,  I can tack the resistor to the floor,  and the light source will be both stationary and at the right height close to the wall without being on the wall.

What color was the interior of a C&S waycar? A yellowish tan?

[Derrell Poole]

I think 1009's interior color at the CRRM is fairly close; kind of a pale ocher color. Who can tell from the outside anyway?