How to pick up power for DCC in OMI Cabooses (Sn3)

[Todd A Ferguson]

I assume it is a magnetic reed switch.  I have yet to get my hands on the car decoder.

Sounds like a fun thing to play with though...  Might be necessary to fasten the switch location in the center of the car away from magnets placed at the ends.

Perhaps a slot formed of brass strip could have a mating tab of brass soldered to the roof. Then the slot could be slid into the tab to secure the roof at several locations.

Best,

Todd Ferguson

Harrisburg, NC

Sent from my Wacked and Cracked iPad III, OUCH!!!

On Mar 8, 2015, at 12:16 PM, "Derrell Poole [via C&Sn3 Discussion Forum]" <[hidden email]> wrote:

In a typical decoder magnetism doesn't seem to cause any affect. But the Sound Car decoder has a magnetic activated switch on it. I described this earlier in the thread. That is an issue to investigate.

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NAML

[Derrell Poole]

Do get a 3 pack of these, Todd. They are interesting and fun.

[Chris Walker]

Can you enlighten me just how these magnets will be of use?  As I have no magnet to test with, I can't say for sure but Brass is a Noble metal not ferrous and therefore in my mind wont be attracted to the magnet.

[Todd A Ferguson]

Have to go magnet to magnet or magnet to a piece of steel epoxied into the roof edge..

I have a piece of brass door kick that is brass backed with magnet sheet. A small piece could be soldered in place, but probably way overkill for this need...

Best,

Todd Ferguson

Harrisburg, NC

Sent from my Wacked and Cracked iPad III, OUCH!!!

On Mar 8, 2015, at 4:46 PM, "Chris Walker [via C&Sn3 Discussion Forum]" <[hidden email]> wrote:

Can you enlighten me just how these magnets will be of use?  As I have no magnet to test with, I can't say for sure but Brass is a Noble metal not ferrous and therefore in my mind wont be attracted to the magnet.

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[Todd A Ferguson]

I will one of these days...

Best,

Todd Ferguson

Harrisburg, NC

Sent from my Wacked and Cracked iPad III, OUCH!!!

On Mar 8, 2015, at 3:57 PM, "Derrell Poole [via C&Sn3 Discussion Forum]" <[hidden email]> wrote:

Do get a 3 pack of these, Todd. They are interesting and fun.

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[Derrell Poole]

The magnet activates the quick consist feature of the Sound Car decoder. I described this earlier in this Thread. It also deactivates the car's inclusion in the consist. With a magnet passed over the car you can consist a whole string of cars in a matter of seconds. Might wanna read my first post here.

Another thought; magnets in a car holding a roof in place could deactivate cars in another consist as they pass each other...

[Keith Hayes]

Darel, when the time comes, what is the best way to post a short video? The "link" button, or "Insert Image?"

Derrell, when I go to paint the caboose, I wonder how best to address the decoder and speaker. The directions indicate that the decoder is supposed to be 5 mm away from the speaker. I have a short length of 1/4" square tube that I stuffed the speaker-decoder wire into. I got a rectangular speaker at caboose, that is about the same length as the decoder. I would like to tape the speaker to the decoder across the styrene tube. Any good ideas how to do this?

Also, I am wondering about getting a micro LED and wiring it to the yellow light function for an interior light--I may as well for the minimal cost and small initial time investment.

How sensitive is the magnetic consisting switch on the decoder? Do I need to mount this to the roof with tape/ velcro? Or can I just let the works float in the car on the floor?

So many questions....

[Derrell Poole]

Keith I talked to George at STxx the other day about magnets and the switch. He said you need to place the switch against the car roof. I use Locktite Fun-Tak (hardware store). You'll get the picture when you see what it is.

I asked about magnets and how close they need to be to activate or deactivate the decoder. He said less than an inch so cars with magnets holding a removable roof on a box car won't turn off the consist as it passes the cars. I use a very small Railmaster enclosed speaker and it doesn't interfere with the decoder. Just don't mount them right next to each other. Also I use a 1.5 volt incandescent bulb with a resister that keeps the voltage around 1.25 volts and this is both yellow enough and dim enough to look good in the caboose with the lights in the room off. But I don't like LEDs because they are too bright and modern in cast. What matters about installing is that everything is neat, as easily accessed as possible and that it works. How you do that is up to you. I don't like seeing the wires thru the windows.

[Keith Hayes]

Tell me more about the resistor,  Derrell. I am not electrically inclined,  so need specifics.

[Derrell Poole]

I guess this is why you pay me the big bucks to do this for you, Keith. You need a multi meter and knowledge of how to use it. I can't just tell you what value to use since it depends on the actual voltage output of the function used. (It isn't necessarily 12 volts despite nominal rating - and with micro bulbs it makes a difference.) Whatever it is, subtract 1.25 volts (assuming you want a bulb dimly lit other wise 1.5 volts) from the total voltage of the function. The result is the voltage you want to drop on the resistor. Divide this by the ampere rating of the bulb - likely .017 amps, plus or minus. If you measure 12 volts across the function and blue lead you want to drop 10.75 volts on the resistor. Divide 10.75 by .017 amps. 632 ohms. Stock resistor available 680. If you don't verify these figures yourself the bulb may blow or be too dim or not light up at all. If you are going to do this stuff yourself go to Wallie world and get a cheap multimeter and investigate online how to use it and how to use Ohms law.  Even if you use LEDs you will need to use resistors to get the amount of brightness you want and yet not flash the diode.

[Darel Leedy]

Keith,

You will have to upload your videos to YouTube first. Then use the Embed button to insert them into a post:

Use ... to embed widgets from other websites. Currently Nabble supports:
Videos from Youtube, Vimeo and LiveLeak.
Just paste the code (provided by the sites above) within these tags and you are ready to post it.

[Chris Walker]

Can you host on Flikr like I do and post a short url like this  https://flic.kr/p/m2snFx       and get it to work....?  It is a Movie with C&S content as well{:))  If no white triangle appears in the centre, then Click the share link to the right then re-click the movie, that is the way my browser likes it(Vista/ie9), that is, it won't play a movie straight from the photostrip like it should.  You can always try viewing in a slideshow to make the movies run.  Flickr allows a up to 2 minute movie before timing out.

[Keith Hayes]

Chris, I see the movie, but I don't see anyone waving white hankies. What's up with that?

Good to know there are several methods to post a video. This could offer a whole new opportunity to exchange information and start squabbles about red roofs, green boilers and white refer!

[Keith Hayes]

Damnit Derrel, I'm an ARCHITECT, not an electrical engineer.

[Derrell Poole]

I'm not an architect - and I've designed custom homes that have been built. I've told you what to do. Not sure I can do anymore than that by remote. Buy a meter, get on line and find info on how to use it. Do the math and then test the results with a fist full of resistor - I think they are like .20 each at Radio Shack. You want 1/4 watt sizes. Heck. Go talk to Dave 502 at Caboose hobbies...

This isn't nearly as difficult as calculating stress loads long hand or wedging the bathroom between the mudroom and the closet!

[Keith Hayes]

Okay, soldered the last wire on and did a test and I got a sound. Picked up the TCS current keeper, some resistors and a 1.5v bulb. Now, on to the rest of the build and a download of the manual so I can program the thing.

Thanks Dave and Derrell!

[Derrell Poole]

We'll need to have pictures of the finished product at some point. Otherwise we will feel short changed in the deal....

[Keith Hayes]

Well...isn't that the kettle calling the pot black?!?

Really, there is not much to see just yet--it still looks like the last pic I posted.

How about you? You got yours up and running?

...and, any tips for connecting wire to micro plugs?

I will say this--I have always been reticent to do electronic work on my locomotives, and a Sound Car is a great way to work through the parts and pieces and build your confidence. It is not really hard. It just takes patience, care and a bit of planning. I now feel a lot better about tacking my locos and installing some Current Keepers.

[Derrell Poole]

Hey, I just tell for effect, Keith.

I have two electronic cabooses already. I've posted photos of these already. I have two more all torn down and under backdate process. They sit there on my bench where I install DCC in other people's stuff. Right now it's a 1989 run PBL K-27 (461). So who has time for the bobbers? Like all my other projects they wait until I catch my breath. I'd do more modeling of my own but I need to buy Tacos and Bullets. So I do other peoples stuff.

That is exactly the tip; the Tip - of the iron. As fine pointed a Tip as you can get and a delicate touch. Tin the end of the wires and the prongs of the plugs. Put paste flux on the middle prong then work outward as you go. It helps if you can use an alligator clip on a piece of  .032" piano wire stuck in a block of wood to hold the plug while you work. As you work outward turn the plug over each time soldering wires on opposite sides of the prongs from each other. Keep flipping and soldering and putting a new small ball of solder on the tip and fluxing prongs. The solder will jump off your iron onto the prong and the wire as you touch them held against each other. Be quick but frugal. Too much solder bridges the prongs. Too little solder makes it more difficult to solder the wire - slower and over heating.

 

[Keith Hayes]

Progress just for you Darrell:

KA1 installed along with one lead of the light. I dipped the bulb in Tamiya 'clear orange'  to assure a yellow glow. I forget why I got this paint eons ago, but it sure does the job.