Hand Built Switches and Track

[Todd A Ferguson]

My Sn3 number 9 code 70 switch template and point form tool.

[Todd A Ferguson]

Stub switch built over Lee Kleidon template.  I believe that this is a number 8 or 8 1/2.

[Todd A Ferguson]

Number 9 as built in the template but with hinged points.

[Todd A Ferguson]

Stubs built with code 55 cross pieces.  Also just a frog with closure rails which can be used to build a nice HO number 9 turnout.  I have also used my template to just build number 9 frogs and even long lengths of straight track.  A very useful template.  I have also used it to build code 55 and even code 40 switches with a bit of careful use of the NMRA gauge.

[Todd A Ferguson]

A closer view...

[Todd A Ferguson]

Number 9 stub built with PC ties still in place.  I use 8x8 ties as these are intended to represent RGS turnouts and ties.  Of course these PC ties can be removed and replaced with wood ties.

[Todd A Ferguson]

The frog and guard rails if the template built stub switch...

[Todd A Ferguson]

The head tie area.  I believe I used pieces of rail joiners on the thrown rails as Tim Warris suggest in his guide to building stub turnouts from FastTracks templates.

[Todd A Ferguson]

External point lap switch I built probably 12 years ago for grins....  never put all the point spacers and throw bars in though I guess...

[Todd A Ferguson]

Internal point lap switch.  Looks like I lost a couple of guard rails along the way too...

The lap switches perform the same function as a double switch in a slightly longer length but with less complex construction.  I guess if you do the NMRA Master Modeler certification you have to build some track for one section of the process.  I may build a number 8 or 9 double slip in Sn3 for grins one day...

[Todd A Ferguson]

Turnout built with Details West cast frog.  These are nice castings for code 70 with bolt details and some plastic fish plates.  I’m not sure if these are even available any more.  My local hobby shop never seemed to get more than 2 or 3 at a time.  I think the price was about $7-$8 each.

The point throw bars are from Proto87Stores.com and I believe the points have their etched reinforcement plates attached.  A nice detail too.  The throw bars are designed for HO but easy to modify for Sn3 use.

[Todd A Ferguson]

A scratch built gauge bar I did for an experiment.  Brass and plastic...

[Todd A Ferguson]

Proto87Stores milled number 8 frog...  these are very very nice but need to be soldered together.  Three pieces that stack one on the other.  Actually not hard to solder or work with...

[Todd A Ferguson]

Proto87Stores throw bars and closure rail to point connection etched pieces.  These work well and Proto87Stores has some innovative and well engineered products.  Their Mole switch machines are also well done and relatively inexpensive too.

Also an experiment in adding knot holes to the pine ties usually used by the RGS and cut by the locals off their own land and delivered by placing them near the track.

[Todd A Ferguson]

Gauntlet turnout...quite rare but I actually knew of a real one near West Pittsburgh, PA in an industrial siding...  

The gauntlet track is probably more common for taking 2 tracks over a single track bridge or through a tunnel.

One of the points is missing...but this just hangs by my bench...

[Todd A Ferguson]

Code 40 straight track experiment...short pieces of copper wire or rail soldered vertically to the bottom of the rail.  These can then be inserted in larger holes in the roadbed and glued with 5 minute epoxy.  This greatly reinforces the code 40 rail without using PC ties.  I have a fear of dislodging code 40 rail when cleaning the rail tops.  I also prefer to build track at the workbench.  I can build 18 to 36 inch long sections at the bench and then install them later.  I also build my turnouts at the bench on plywood blocks that can be installed and easily uninstalled and moved or reused if desired.

Proto87stores HO etched spikes used by the way.  By far and away my favorite spikes for HO, S and their 150 percent ones for O scale.

[Todd A Ferguson]

18” length of code 40 straight track.  I probably built over a dozen sections of code 40 track this way...

[Jim Courtney]

Exquisite track work, Todd!!

Where do you obtain your wooden ties?? Kappler or Mt. Albert?

I see how you did the code 55 rail spacers underneath the rail web of the template  built stubs. Neat solution. I suspect that the nickel-silver rail solders and unsolders easily and cleaner than nickel-silver to copper foil. I'll try that with may next stub.

Jim

[Todd A Ferguson]

Thanks Jim.  I think

I have build handlaid track about every way possible in the last 45 years.  And tried a few ideas of my own.  I have used some flex track and commercial turnouts too.  Mainly in HO standard gauge.  I always found myself fussing with commercial turnouts to the point it is just easier to build my own.  I do like the Central Valley tie and turnout strip for HO track for both detail and ease of use.

 I have also built some of the Proto87Stores super detailed turnouts with the individual tie plates.  It all works but takes 3-5 hours to build one turnout.  And once you get a foot or two away the details are so fine they largely disappear.

In S scale 1/8” square strip wood is the correct size for 8x8 ties.  And in O scale for 6x6 ties which I believe the C&S used for track, but not turnouts.  You can buy that size basswood at craft and hobby stores.  But being a woodworker I usually cut my own in my shop.  1 can buy a 1x6 by 8 ft long basswood board for $12 or so.  That makes quite a few ties. Or if I have some fine grain pine scraps I can use those too...

And yes the rail cross pieces solder easily, but I don’t have a problem with the PC ties using my temperature controlled Weller soldering station.  The key is the right tip for the job, good flux and .010” diameter solder. 

Todd

Sent from my iPhone

On Feb 8, 2021, at 10:00 PM, Jim Courtney [via C&Sng Discussion Forum] <[hidden email]> wrote:

 Exquisite track work, Todd!!

Where do you obtain your wooden ties?? Kappler or Mt. Albert?

I see how you did the code 55 rail spacers underneath the rail web of the template  built stubs. Neat solution. I suspect that the nickel-silver rail solders and unsolders easily and cleaner than nickel-silver to copper foil. I'll try that with may next stub.

Jim

---

If you reply to this email, your message will be added to the discussion below:

http://c-sng-discussion-forum.41377.n7.nabble.com/Hand-Built-Switches-and-Track-tp16293p16315.html

To unsubscribe from Hand Built Switches and Track, click here.
NAML

[MontanaMax]

That is pretty impressive work, Todd.  It's an inspiration for my starting to build some FT #6 code 70 switches.

Walt