Re: Modelling stub switches
Posted by Jeff Young on Sep 02, 2015; 6:00pm
URL: http://c-sng-discussion-forum.254.s1.nabble.com/Modelling-stub-switches-tp2408p3347.html
Back to my bridle rods.
My first attempt to "dirt" them involved painting the PC-board surface with thinned white glue, and then sprinkling them with genuine Boreas Pass dirt. Most of it just fell back off, perhaps because I didn't use any kind of wetting agent. But even where I got a decent layer, you could still see reflections from the bright solder underneath.
So round two saw the PC-boards painted with a neutral sand colour (in enamel), and then the dirt sprinkled on while the paint was still wet. This got me a thicker layer, and also got rid of the glinting solder.
I then painted a 0.025" styrene rod, and tried to use wicking CAA to glue them down. This resulted in a not very good "stick", and also darkened the dirt near where the glue was applied (which you can see on the throw bar). For the next two (the bridle rods), I used white glue applied with a toothpick, which worked much better (and allowed for less nerve-racking positioning).
Finally, the sides of the rail joiners were striped: the neutral sand colour on the outside thirds, and black to match the bridle rods on the middle third:
I'm quite happy with the way they look.
Sadly, something went wrong in my soldering stage because they're all out of gauge by the same amount.
Hopefully their replacements will go quicker....
Cheers,
Jeff.
URL: http://c-sng-discussion-forum.254.s1.nabble.com/Modelling-stub-switches-tp2408p3347.html
Back to my bridle rods.
My first attempt to "dirt" them involved painting the PC-board surface with thinned white glue, and then sprinkling them with genuine Boreas Pass dirt. Most of it just fell back off, perhaps because I didn't use any kind of wetting agent. But even where I got a decent layer, you could still see reflections from the bright solder underneath.
So round two saw the PC-boards painted with a neutral sand colour (in enamel), and then the dirt sprinkled on while the paint was still wet. This got me a thicker layer, and also got rid of the glinting solder.
I then painted a 0.025" styrene rod, and tried to use wicking CAA to glue them down. This resulted in a not very good "stick", and also darkened the dirt near where the glue was applied (which you can see on the throw bar). For the next two (the bridle rods), I used white glue applied with a toothpick, which worked much better (and allowed for less nerve-racking positioning).
Finally, the sides of the rail joiners were striped: the neutral sand colour on the outside thirds, and black to match the bridle rods on the middle third:
I'm quite happy with the way they look.
Sadly, something went wrong in my soldering stage because they're all out of gauge by the same amount.
Hopefully their replacements will go quicker....
Cheers,
Jeff.
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