Re: How to pick up power for DCC in OMI Cabooses (Sn3)

Posted by Derrell Poole on
URL: http://c-sng-discussion-forum.254.s1.nabble.com/How-to-pick-up-power-for-DCC-in-OMI-Cabooses-Sn3-tp919p1217.html

I've been playing with the Soundtraxx SoundCar decoder; yes, I put one in 306. It's actually a slick device and I can see how a string of cars so equipped would add a significant dimension to your train running experience.

First some observation - let's say things I didn't care for about installing. The 9 pin plug they provide is a far cry from the plug on the TSU1000 - because of the wire! They are Teflon coated and trying to strip them with a less than sharp pair of dikes - sux! I pulled a wire out of the plug. Then I promptly pulled them all out and replaced them with quality strand copper wire of the appropriate colors. You can get plugs from TCS but the colors are not correct. The second thing is that I've found is that the Soundtraxx Current Keeper is tooooo much. When you disconnect power it takes a good 60 seconds to discharge. I will try a TCS KA-1 which does not hold as much charge. You'd be surprised how much room is NOT in an Sn3 bobber! So the smaller keep alive will take up less room and not weigh as much. I used a small speaker from Railmaster. I'll show you all of this when I convert 308.

I set the whistle to the little air whistler. Somehow the big Nathan and Wabco horns are a bit much. I have never known if the C&S used whistles in their cabooses but there are hints they may have. Then I turned that and the bell functions off. I have an OMI UP C-4 I'll do that stuff in anyway. You can set the clickity clack to a 2 axle truck and then choose one truck per car option to represent the bobber. You can also adjust how fast the clickity clacks. The bobber axles are 9 fe3et apart as opposed to a four foot truck so they should take over twice as long to clack. I also put a light in the interior but will have to figure out what to do about signal lamps on the ends of the car.

One of the really slick things is how you synchronize the rail noise and brake squeal with the speed of your engine. First the decoder takes the same accel / decel settings as your loco so set CV 3 and 4 the same as the engine. Then set the brake rate CV 61 to also match the loco. Here is where it gets interesting; by consisting the car your "train" will sound correct for how fast the engine is pulling - or braking. The Tsunami does give you braking and release options by pressing f11. But the car must be consisted with the train.

Enter the magic wand. Consisting the SoundCar decoder with the train or consist is as easy as waving this wand - a small magnet attached to the end of a common pencil. The instructions advise that you mount the decoder's flat surface to the ceiling of the car because there is a switch on the decoder that is magnetically activated. By waving your magnet in the right spot you set up consisting the car. First set your throttle to your engine or consist. Then pass the wand over the spot and listen for the hand brake to release. When you hear that press f8 four times. Now you will hear the retainer bleed off and voila the car is a member of the consist! (I do like manual things). The switch on the decoder gives you 60 seconds to press f8 4 times. How many cars can you wave a magnets over in 60 seconds?

To unconsist a car just wave the magnet over it again! You will hear the hand brake ratchet up - that's right - you are the brakeman. Can you imagine the fun this will add to switch lists?

For us narrow gaugers with cars that typically don't easily come apart the brass cars are ideal. I plan to put decoders in all my cabooses and passenger cars. I'll do some house cars as well after figuring a good way to provide removable roofs - something secure (more than friction fit).

There are a lot of options for the SoundCar. You can set them up for cabooses, freight cars, passenger cars, mechanical reefers, cab cars - but not stock cars! No pig, sheep, cow, or horse sounds - darn!